Reviewing the Grand Seiko SBGA029 was mostly a selfish endeavor, as I longed to spend some quality time test driving this diver. Its considerable dimensions are indeed way outside my comfort zone, yet I have somehow still been deeply attracted to this specific model ever since we first wrote about it a year ago. I was already familiar with the dressier Grand Seiko models and had high expectations based on Seiko’s track record with diving watches. After all, it must be fairly hard to compete with its cousin the Seiko SKX007 most likely the best price-for-quality diver you could ever dream of. For that reason, the SBGA029 goes a totally different direction, offering an interesting interpretation of a luxury diver, aiming at the Rolexes and Omegas of this world, while putting a unique twist on the category as well.
The Grand Seiko SBGA029 is absolutely not a new watch. It was actually launched eight years ago, and has remained in the Grand Seiko catalog ever since. I mean, as mentioned above, we’ve even covered it before. If you are familiar with Grand Seiko’s cryptic denomination system, you can actually infer two things about the watch solely from its reference number. First off, SBGA indicates a Spring Drive caliber. Simple enough. Then there’s the odd number, which indicates a white metal (or, more recently, a black ceramic case as well). Even numbers are reserved for rose and yellow gold. The SBGA029 was actually born with a titanium counterpart, the reference SBGA031, but I would argue that the imposing weight of the former is part of the full experience. Those of you who disagree, let me know down in the comments.
Indeed, the SBGA029 weighs no less than 201 grams. Compare this to the 153 grams of the Rolex Submariner Date and the 173 grams of the Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 and you instantly realize that this is anything but a light watch. Actually, this Grand Seiko comes in closer to the Rolex Sea-Dweller Deep Sea, with which it shares a 44mm case size. However, it does not match the 1,220m depth rating of the massive Rolex, obtaining “just” a 200m water resistance certification. But, let’s be honest, this is more than enough for most mere mortals and you can trust Grand Seiko to have over-engineered its watch from the inside out too.
On first look, it is obvious that the SBGA029 was built to be a rough-and-tumble tool watch. It feels like it could sustain the worst abuse you could throw at it, and everything down to the bracelet clasp immediately impresses. Why focus on such a random part? Well, any diver will tell you that easy adjustments to the bracelet’s size are essential for wearing the watch over a diving suit, and the Grand Seiko’s adjustment system is both simple and efficient. On the other side, the engraved clasp testifies of the high degree of finishing to be expected from Grand Seiko, with multiple textures and a fine level of detail.
The indexes and handset (especially the minute hand) definitely carry some of the design cues from the Seiko mothership. They proved highly legible during my time with the watch, and it makes perfect sense why their aggressive shapes was kept. The luminous dot on the tail of the seconds hand is another unusual detail that I actually really enjoyed. It lets you know the watch is in motion in the dark, but leaves the sharp tip of the hand itself intact for reading the seconds very precisely in the light.
Interestingly, the new quartz divers from Seiko launched in 2015 (SBGX115 and SBGX117, again exhibiting a pattern in reference numbers) still present such a configuration. Even better, Seiko’s own lume shows incredible performance. Honestly, this might be the strongest and long-lasting lume you can get anywhere – such benefits are crucial underwater (but quite handy on the bedside table, as well).
I did not dive to the limit of what this watch can handle (nor will I ever go anywhere near that depth), but I learned to appreciate this watch as a daily wearer more and more as time went by. It is not truly a desk diver to be worn with a suit, but it looked great with more informal clothing. The 14mm-thick case proved very manageable, something I was skeptical about. To be fair, the size and weight did take a couple of days to get used to, especially when switching from the tiny vintage watches I usually wear. I eventually found it very comfortable on the wrist, and the nice weight distribution keeps it stable on the wrist – the last thing you want with a watch like this is for it to be swinging around. The short lugs play a big role here, and the same watch with longer lugs would have been a real challenge for me.
Lastly, I must confess that I was not a fan of the power reserve indicator prior to receiving the watch. Since then, I’ve grown mostly indifferent to it, although I do understand the symbolic importance of having it there. With an automatic movement, you rarely check up on your watch when you don’t wear it, especially if it anything short of a perpetual calendar. Here though, the power reserve indicator highlights the use of a Spring Drive movement, more precisely the caliber 9R65.
The Grand Seiko SBGA029 is obviously not a standard beater watch, but it is definitely something you could wear in any circumstance and not have to worry about. Its specs and looks show that it belongs at sea, or at least on the wrist of someone who likes to take a dip now and then. Everything about it is consistent with Grand Seiko’s focus on quality engineering and finishing, and it’s an extremely satisfying tool watch to wear.
Here is a tremendous Grand Seiko in Collectors Quality! The Original and best for a reason! Getting more & more difficult to find these days…especially one that has not been polished, etc!!
BRAND: Grand Seiko
MODEL: Spring Drive SBGA029
MOVEMENT: Japanese Spring Drive – Caliber 9R65
CASE: Stainless Steel
CROWN: Screw Down
SIZE: 44mm
LUGS: 22mm
DIAL: Gorgeous Black Dial
BEZEL: rotating Diver
CONDITION: Pre-owned – As-New!
BOXES/PAPERS: Yes/Yes: 100% Complete Grand Seiko Box Set! – comes with everything as shown in pictures!
WATER RESISTANCE: – 200m
STRAP/BRACELET: – Original Grand Seiko Stainless Steel bracelet with Ratcheting Clasp & all links!
